Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Moto Day 2: Puno to Arica, Chile

I'm a huge aficionado of transitions between landscapes, so today was a great day. Starting at Lake Titicaca I ascended to the continental divide of the Andes, a stark, barren region of extreme cold. I had to stop and warm my frozen hands on the engine of the moto twice. After reaching a snow-covered landscape the altitude suddenly relented and I plunged down into the desert, reaching Mocegua in time for a Christmas Eve lunch of guinea pig (my first guinea pig, and probably also my last: it was not good). Another few hours through dramatic desert scenery brought me to the border of Chile. Crossing the border took a while, what with the Peruvian moto and American passport, but was easy enough. I arrived in Chile's first city, Arica, bustling with holiday activity, before nightfall.
Last gas before crossing the high passes.
This sulfurous geyser spewed out of a creek that then flowed through a natural bridge under the road. Andean birds that resemble gulls gathered around, presumably for the warmth.
Looks like the Sinks of Gandy!
I'd heard there were flamingos living in the Atacama near San Pedro, Chile, but I did not expect to see one at 15,000' on the cold, soggy altiplano. Lost, or perfectly at home?
So cold! Once again, I was Tintin in Tibet.
...and after a winding descent I felt like I was in Palestine. The arid landscape held oases of green in little valleys. Riding through these oases, the air blowing through my helmet was filled with rich, fragrant scents that made me think of the sensual language in "The Song of Songs."
Most of the landscape, however, looked like this.
Hooray! Country #4!

2 comments:

  1. Moonscape!
    Maybe you can write a travel guide to the most varied landscapes in one trip--or in one day, if you pare it down.

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  2. What's the third language on Chile's welcome gate? Presumably "Indian," but more precisely ... "Markaru Sumapurintama Chile"

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